Steampunk

Nope, not here. A 1.5 ohm carto worked good on the older No Ego (the one with the "bad switch") But I did have one battery that was doing just what you all (northerner) are saying....blink blink, one good vape and then blinkblinkblinkblink.....

RY4

That is odd... are you talking about the white Trustfire charger from Madvapes? The batteries I got from Mike fit in mine fine. Haven't had any problems with them not fitting right.

Teri

Yup, that's the charger. And they look like they're in there but they really aren't. That top button is not making contact. I tried forcing one, and tore it all to he!! They're a little longer than the ultrafire batts. If it's the ones that came with the boss you're having trouble with, try charging them in the boss charger and see what happens.

also, don't " hang" them in a plug socket. They don't charge right that way. It's hard to find a socket in a MH that you don't plug "up" or sideways into. Luckily, I have a plug bar I was able to use when I realized that hanging them was breaking the connection with the battery ends and I wasn't getting good charge.

RY4

I didn't get the Boss, just ordered the battery replacements for the Boss. But haven't had any trouble with getting them in there or charging. Maybe the ones that come with the kit are different??? Don't see why they would be though. Weird.

wetwire

- I dunno how well this might work in your application but this stuff has worked wonders for me in the past.

First try (no worries): http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ker_PURPLE.htm



Or if it is still coming apart jump to medium perhaps(little more caution / patience here):
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ocker_BLUE.htm



The red is a more permanent solution.. pretty tuff to get apart

They have this stuff in stick, gel and liquid forms. Large, med and small bottles. Even little single use packs that, only one might make your repair like 5 times I suspect. This would be what I would pick up. Most any Auto Parts stores will have the as well as HD, Lowes, grocery stores. Maybe even your own garage Each type will have its own method for using. If it were me I would try the liquid. Easier to twist the device around and let it run through the threads. Also able to control amount of it to use. Might try Teflon tape first as a proof of concept.. Oooor maybe even the solution itself. If you try this stuff just shout out for a more detail how to on using it if ya like.

- Have my second "blinkityblinkblink" mini bat on the charger right now doing its cryptic blink code and getting steadily warmer.. WTH? The other one I had do tjis, I opened up. The entire guts of it, all the way to the vac switch was saturated.. The problem?? Me thinks so. Likely an easy fix.. dunno did not try.

wetwire

I could suggest a simple add-on, ghetto style wire mod if no one (who knows where I am going with this) minds.

Teri

DH is keen on thread locker. I'll ask him about it, but as I recall, if it works, I'll have trouble getting it apart again to replace the battery. Been ten years since we had the shop. Those kind of memories go downhill quickly.

berger

do not use thread locker on your boss or noego Teri..they are kidding ...crazy glue is faster..

Steampunk

The only thought i have about it is that it might act like an insulator. As long as you get a good ground at the point where the two pieces come together you should be OK, but LocTite is basically an anerobic plastic (like RTV) that hardens in the ABSENCE of air!

RY4

Huh? What is a ghetto wire mod? Going with what? Who?

Teri

See? If DH was here, I would have known that already. Lord, I do wish he'd hurry up home! There ain't no way in he!! I'd put crazy glue on it. The acetone to get it undone would destroy the finish.

RY4

Ok, steam let me know what that was..... LMAO!!!! Sorry blonde moment there... I do get it honestly...

wetwire

nm .

wetwire

- I was not kidding.. the purple stuff is not like the blue and def not like the red

A couple of drops of this can easily be hand broken

Here -

Permatex® Low Strength Threadlocker PURPLE

OEM specified. Low strength threadlocker designed for fasteners under 1/4" (6mm) that require occasional adjustment. Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly. Noncorrosive. Conforms to ASTM D 5363 AN0311 (Mil-S-46163A, Type II, Grade M).


Suggested Applications: Carburetors, relay locks, headlamps, throttle body assembly, body panel mounting fasteners, fine threads



I would like to mention even the red can be broken loose fairly easy with just a little heat. I still think Teflon tape is worth a try also.. I mean if the device is useless anyway...

berger

I noticed last night one of the faulty batts the cap on the bottom seems a tad loose, sounds odd when you tap it on the side...worked the day before when I first tried it but not the next day..maybe all that spring pressure is not centered and is causing a problem somehow?...
Edit..additional info:
OK..it gets even weirder..I switched out a dual carto for a new one last night...used it late and for a short while this morning..and all of a sudden it wouldnt work on the noego or the infinity..weird..the infinity does not have center pin issues because the way it is made...OK put the old cart back on both and it works fine...then I took and ohm measurement and it was 1.6 and the new one was 0.9 ohms...hmm when put on the noego...you get a 6 second steady light an no fire condition...just like I do with the funny batteries..except this time it was a nonprotected battery that worked fine with the old carto so thats not the issue...interesting..

RY4

It will be nice to find out what is going on with them. I'm beginning to think it is something in the switches messing with the batteries and cartos.

wetwire

- Well, gonna have to put a request in for extra brain power usage on this mess, but I think there could be two separate problems that may have the same root cause.. The juice itself..

1st:

Continuity or lack thereof, I should say, caused by the juice. Of course it could also be chalked up to sloppy tolerances or general low quality manufacturing.

2nd:

Electronics with a smidgen of juice = problems

I have personally experienced both of these conditions so far and we are only talking about a couple of months for me so... My cheapo flashlight mod had problems right off the bat with the spring for the bat. Had to replace it with a wider one.. Actually just added a bigger one in there with the original.

Must think on it

berger

Its an interesting problem and apparently considerably more wide spread then I originally thought. Several months ago I noticed with protected batteries it would occasional blink and require fidgeting to get it to work..some thought this was a center pin issue however when I changed batteries out the problem disappeared. Recently it finally got to the point where the protected batteries just wouldn't work even after fiddling with then repeatedly on any kind of consistent basis..however the unprotected ones continued to work without this problem and still do. The protected batts are a good bit longer then the unprotected ones so the spring force on these are somewhat more then the others due to the caps on the protected batteries. On a second tube other problems seemed to appear with connection issues..where even the unprotected batteries had connection issues and had to have the tube partially unscrewed to work consistently. In this case there seems to be a difference in the spring windings and amount of pressure seems to be more then the first tube. I also noticed newer switches seemed to be more sensitive to the no fire problems then an older switch.
Please Note: Im not advocating the use of unprotected batteries..just stating the facts in my experience. There just seems to be some correlation between the protected batteries with the additional length vs the unprotected batts and the shorter lengths. I would also venture to guess based on the ohm readings of the carto I took this morning that the steady 6 second light but no fire condition is a short circuit protection indication triggered by a low or no ohm condition however no supplier has been able to verify this information up until this point. In addition it looks like there are some common problems Ive experienced or read about there in the forums...1) there is a possible problem with the switches, 2) there is a common connection problem with the tubes to the switches, 3) there is a problem with the force on the protected batteries in some way causing some type of connection problem inside the battery itself 4) there are center pin connection problems with the spacing on DCC's
Anyone of these or a combination of them are causing the issues many of us are running into with them.
Lastly..on a personal level I really like these units so Im not trying to bash them..just trying to put up what I know in hopes of sharing the information we can discover and correct the problems many seem to be having with these.

RY4

I'm sorry WW but just not seeing how juice would be an issue with the problems we have experienced with the noego/epower style models. Using unprotected batteries have not shown any problems. However, protected batteries have, so not sure if it is a battery issue, switch issue, or the spring doing something to the battery or combination of them. Cartos have typically been an issue with the XXL dual coils in making connection with the center pin.

RY4

I agree, even with the issues, I still like them better than my other pvs and continue to use them.

Rose

I'm not bashing them either! When they work I love them. I'm just not going to tinker with them and ruin them until all of the problems are ironed out.