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Old 12-31-2010, 06:06 PM   #151
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wow..
that was VERY well put.
i read every word, and mind you i am not a average consumer but...
that was great
so was the beer and 36 mg juice....
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:33 PM   #152
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Powder/Jelly doughnuts are a programmer's best friend
Powder coated jelly doughnuts are my fav! Especially the Lemon! At walmart they call them Bismarks. HMMMPHHH!!!! they're still jelly doughnuts!
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:09 PM   #153
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Ok, that was awesome! Quite the narrative I would expect from a rocket scientist even though I don't know what you're talking about. ( I did get some of it) Happy New Year to you! Thanks for all of your help that you have given me!

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Old 12-31-2010, 10:42 PM   #154
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Well, if you wanted the 'Cliff Notes' version you should have said so

If you have an extreme application (RC cars and plains, high powered flashlights, stacked battery e-cig mods) then you need extreme Li-ion batteries. But, if your application is lower current,like single cell applications of less than maxed out current then the cheaper, lower quality cells, even with the higher DOA rate may be the most economical approach. But, in all cases, the end user will need to make periodic measurements of cell performance. Even with the expensive cell. Play with Li-ion cells, protected cells of course, learn to play with a meter. Period.

Now by "cheaper" and "expensive" I am referring to 18650 protected $3 cheap cells being sold for up to $5 and expensive $16 cells being sold for up to $22.

I am not referring to the rip off suppliers selling the "CHEAP" cells for up to $12.
The Cheap cells are not worth $10 to $12 dollars. Some of these sellers actually participate in forums and dog the cheap ones, but still sell them. They only inflate the price so they can charge you more for their expensive cells. That's a common bait and switch trick.


I better stop here or this will end up being as long as the wordy post
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:56 AM   #155
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Thanks again, Rocky. Happy New Year.
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:06 AM   #156
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We, the consumer, also tend to abuse and use products outside their designed (not advertised) parameters Driving 90+mph, tuning for max horse power, spinning tires, drifting corners, stereo turned up to max feeding several custom speakers, and then complain about poor product quality and service life of our abused automobile has nothing to do with as-delivered product quality. Some owners must think if the key and gas pedal in our car work then all must be well under the hood.
And hwy I buy Made in Japan Toyotas. Spin the tires off them, get new tires and spin them off again. Repeat until the car rots out from under you in 20-25 years!

But I don't go for the max horsepower thing, and I add amps to get the sound quality I want. You can push things, but if you make it so the limit isn't near the limitations of the product, you're good to go.

Now, apply to Li Ion batteries...
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:10 AM   #157
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wow..
that was VERY well put.
i read every word, and mind you i am not a average consumer but...
that was great
so was the beer and 36 mg juice....
Champagne and 40 mG juice!
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:25 PM   #158
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Easy and inexpensive...? What sort of testing procedure and equipment would you recommend, Rocky? I've got a multimeter, but I might have messed it up trying to learn how to use it. I only mention this so you can gauge my level of expertise.

Oh, and I've seen resisters and circuit boards an stuff inside of broken electronics. (and why are all of those boards green?)
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:17 AM   #159
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The green stuff on circuit boards is called solder mask. It helps keep the solder in the right places.

Get a new battery for your meter, or a new cheap meter, and practice with it on various low voltages like a brand new alkaline battery (about 1.645 volts). Next trip into a Radio Shack (or on-line electronics store ), get a couple of power resistors. Tell the clerk (Radio Shack Bag Boy) you want a couple or three 1 ohm 5 watt resistors, a cheap soldering (low wattage) and a small 'tube' of solder. Start a Walmart bag of electronic bits and pieces put "This is not your purse" on it with a black marker

The most likely error most folks make with a meter (don't ask me how I know) is to have it on the wrong range and function when measuring something. Try and always return the meter to the highest DC voltage range after each use. Leave it on ohms or amps and you will accidentally hook it up to something and fry it before you realize.
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:50 AM   #160
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Here's something that maybe Steam can research for us.

I've taken a few Dell and Lenovo battery packs apart to use the protection module to build 3S Li-ion packs (flashlights). I've noticed that the modules cut off the charging current when any cell reaches 4.35 volts. I know there are some newer Li-ion cells made for 4.3 to 4.35 volt charging algorithms but these were somewhat older packs. Discharge also cuts off at 2.5 volts for any cell. The packs were 3S3P with 9 18650 cells.

My guess is that with the high rate of charge used the 4.35 volt cutoff accounts for cell resistance and would detect a high resistance cell and cutoff charging as even more protection. A bad cell that had developed a higher than normal cell resistance would not show up with a very low charge current. This method stops charging when the weakest cell voltage climbs and stops discharge when the weakest cell (maybe a different one) drops. These modules don't seem to be really 'balancing', just monitoring and controlling charge and discharge.

After charging was terminated by the module, cell voltage quickly dropped to about 4.20 volts. You only see the 4.35 volts if you are watching while it charges. I'm sure there are smarter charge modules used in some laptop packs, including those with serial number lock outs, that have a more complicated alygorithm, but this seems to be different that the CC/CV method recommended everywhere. Strange that many name brand laptop manufacturers use the 'hit it hard' method.

Back in the day, it was common or a NiCad rapid charger to hit cells really hard and test for voltage droop to switch to trickle charge.


Steam,
have you seen this with the Dell packs you have around.
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:57 AM   #161
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Here's something that maybe Steam can research for us.

I've taken a few Dell and Lenovo battery packs apart to use the protection module to build 3S Li-ion packs (flashlights). I've noticed that the modules cut off the charging current when any cell reaches 4.35 volts. I know there are some newer Li-ion cells made for 4.3 to 4.35 volt charging algorithms but these were somewhat older packs. Discharge also cuts off at 2.5 volts for any cell. The packs were 3S3P with 9 18650 cells.

My guess is that with the high rate of charge used the 4.35 volt cutoff accounts for cell resistance and would detect a high resistance cell and cutoff charging as even more protection. A bad cell that had developed a higher than normal cell resistance would not show up with a very low charge current. This method stops charging when the weakest cell voltage climbs and stops discharge when the weakest cell (maybe a different one) drops. These modules don't seem to be really 'balancing', just monitoring and controlling charge and discharge.

After charging was terminated by the module, cell voltage quickly dropped to about 4.20 volts. You only see the 4.35 volts if you are watching while it charges. I'm sure there are smarter charge modules used in some laptop packs, including those with serial number lock outs, that have a more complicated alygorithm, but this seems to be different that the CC/CV method recommended everywhere. Strange that many name brand laptop manufacturers use the 'hit it hard' method.

Back in the day, it was common or a NiCad rapid charger to hit cells really hard and test for voltage droop to switch to trickle charge.


Steam,
have you seen this with the Dell packs you have around.

<eats another hand of pop corn> Hmm
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:45 PM   #162
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tek,
here's something from 2010 to read while you wait.
go make some more popcorn.



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Good and Bad Li-ion cells, my 0.02 about quality.
The Japanese have long been known for pioneering quality analysis methods, with the primary objective of cost/profit, not really quality as many seem to think. Even the “best” Japanese manufacturers will stop improving product quality when monetary returns seems be peaking. Shareholders will demand it. Quality control used to mean lot acceptance inspections to cull out poor product but now means monitoring the entire process from raw materials through assembly and finally to final product sampling. The old method can detect an unacceptable (dollars and cents related) failure rate but can do little to improve the process but process monitoring and control can detect and cull out defective product earlier in the process, saving manufacturing dollars wasted in later build steps. The “worst” manufacturers will monitor profits and spend more on process quality only when the “return” rate is expected to impact “future” profits. If sales profit margins are climbing, then process improvements are unlikely. Even then, old lots may be sold off wholesale at greatly reduced prices to fund the process improvement rather than be culled out at the manufacturing level. Like the automotive and consumer electronics industries, the technology exists to produce a very high quality product, but cost would be prohibitive. It’s usually left up to company management to rule of the cost benefit for process improvements.

We, the consumer, are often misled by branding, advertising HYPE and initial cost. We like bargains, but we are bad at math. A Li-ion cell that costs half as much as another, but has a lower initial performance, shorter lifespan, and higher DOA failure rates may or may not be a bargain. For example; purchase 1000 brand “A” Li-ion cells and 1000 brand “U” cells. Initial (as delivered) DOA rates might be 0.2% for the brand A cells, and 5% for the brand U cells. Useful service life for the brand A may be twice that of the brand U cells, and in-service failure rates twice as high for the brand U cells. It would be necessary to know these types of product performance criteria to evaluate the true cost of two brands, but there is a compromise point in cost that would make one a better deal.
We, the consumer, also tend to abuse and use products outside their designed (not advertised) parameters Driving 90+mph, tuning for max horse power, spinning tires, drifting corners, stereo turned up to max feeding several custom speakers, and then complain about poor product quality and service life of our abused automobile has nothing to do with as-delivered product quality. Some owners must think if the key and gas pedal in our car work then all must be well under the hood. Few perform all required maintenance to improve service life or detect performance degradation. The same is true with battery operated “toys”. Use it until it stops working, throw it out. The casual consumer is setting himself up for failures by ignoring early warnings of impending failure or being ignorant of maintenance requirements, whereas the typical “Hobbyist” puts himself at risk on purpose. The inconvenience of cell failure, an intangible cost in some cases can also be minimized be minimal testing by the end user with pre and post charge voltage checks, and periodic load testing to monitor cell degradation to reduce the inconvenience factor of cell failure. Just like your car, the true cost of abuse and lack of maintenance of Li-ion cells may be more than just the cost of a replacement. It may involve your safety.

I have an old IBM laptop with a Li-ion battery pack that I use in the shop to record various test data. This old computer has the capability to display its own battery voltage and charge/discharge current and tells me when the battery pack isn’t performing up to snuff. The 8 hour life of an old pack had degraded to about 4 hours. Replaced it with a cheap clone pack that seems to perform OK for now but I will monitor pack performance. Anyone think I can salvage some “high quality” Japanese 2200mah cells from the weak pack? (5 year old, heavily used, degraded high quality cells?). Not me, but I hear about others doing it. How about drawing excessive current, over the true design limit, from batteries, or leaving batteries on the charger for days on end, or storing Li-ion cells fully charged in a flashlight for months so they will be ready when you need them (or NOT periodically recharging Ni-cad, and Ni-mh cells for months, letting them discharge completely for that matter). Combining cells into strange series and parallel configurations without periodic testing for weak cells or imbalance is unsafe. My old laptop (with a 3P3S Li-ion pack) does a better job than most human battery users as far as battery safety. How many battery powered devices around you have that type of safety monitoring? Maybe a better question would be, how many potentially dangerous battery powered devices do you have that you properly use and maintain, and test? How would you rate product quality now that you’ve had your filthy hands on it?

Just what are the periodic maintenance requirements for Li-ion cells and packs. Properly designed consumer products using Li-ion batteries have “built-in” performance monitoring, and the device and battery pack have been designed to work together. Most of the systems won’t even start with a detected issue related to the Li-ion battery. Cells phones, laptops, battery powered hand tools have charge, load and temperature monitoring circuits that have probably been submitted for type acceptance and approved “safe for use by the average dumb consumer”. Hobby devices, like upper end RC toys, high powered flashlights, and big-battery e-cig mods, probably haven’t received the same design scrutiny and don’t have the same level of user protection. It’s now up to the end user to monitor performance and protect himself. It would be prudent to measure the cell voltage of every cell every time it comes off the charger, and of course not leave any cell on the charger for extended periods just waiting for it to fail would be a good idea. Conducting a physical inspection every time you use or charge a cell seems a no-brainer. Less frequently, a load test should be performed to cull out degraded cells. This could be a mid-current test (50% rated current) for a small portion (5 to 10% of rated capacity) of the total charge. A 2 ohm load test for 5 minutes on an 18650 would tell a lot about the health of a cell and help identify weak cells. Severe applications drawing currents near the design limits, or battery packs containing multiple cells should be tested more frequently as cell voltage and capacity may be critical to safe operation.

The as-delivered quality of a Li-ion cell went out with the bath water the first time you used it. Knowing the quality of a Li-ion cell once it has been used is the responsibility of the end user, and it’s not hard to learn to do this, or expensive. Being able to detect aging, deteriorated, or damaged cells may save you money and body parts in the long run. Trusting the quality of a new Li-ion cell, doesn’t keep you safe when the cell gets old. That’s your job.
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:04 PM   #163
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tek,
here's something from 2010 to read while you wait.
go make some more popcorn.
Just as relevant and fresh as last year rocket, now, where is that tall soda?
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:11 PM   #164
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Well sort of.
It's hard to believe that back in 2008/2009 I was happy with 2.2 ohm joye attys on a 10440 battery.
In 2010, it was 2.8 ohm cartos on an 18650 mod.

Now I'm vaping mostly 1.5 ohm (dual 3 ohm heaters) at 3.7 volts on even bigger batteries.

High volts? not yet.
The "h" in mah keeps me going
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A good e-juice, fresh carto, and 3.7 volts from a REALLY REALLY BIG battery works for me. YMMV

Originally Posted by Rocketman
...Quasi was right...Once

Last edited by Rocketman; 02-18-2012 at 01:14 PM..
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:25 PM   #165
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Well sort of.
It's hard to believe that back in 2008/2009 I was happy with 2.2 ohm joye attys on a 10440 battery.
In 2010, it was 2.8 ohm cartos on an 18650 mod.

Now I'm vaping mostly 1.5 ohm (dual 3 ohm heaters) at 3.7 volts on even bigger batteries.

High volts? not yet.
The "h" in mah keeps me going
You bring up a interesting point.. Now heat out put aside lets look at the wattage, you say your using twice pipes, or a dual coil carto <is there a difference?> and running around lets say 4.2 volts for sake of argument, that would put you around 11.76 watts, at say 2.8 amps.. If that be true it would seem at my slightly higher voltage <about 1.8 volts> of 6 volts, on a single coil cartomiser or atty at say about 3 ohms would give me 12 watts, but 2 amps saving .8 amps per draw, and that means i would get better batt life and have less of a hard draw on the h of the mah of my cells?
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:35 PM   #166
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I don't do the twice pipes that often.

The 1.5 ohm dual coils with a pair of 3 ohm coils in parallel vape at a round 3.7 volts. That's about 2.5 amps. The cheap BigRed cells work with these, but that's close to max capability of the cell. The 26650 LiMnNi cells, or the dual 18650 boxes give a larger "Margin of Safety" for my High Powered 9 watt vape

The lower capable cells would be better for my 2010 vape at 5 to 8 watts.
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:05 PM   #167
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I don't do the twice pipes that often.

The 1.5 ohm dual coils with a pair of 3 ohm coils in parallel vape at a round 3.7 volts. That's about 2.5 amps. The cheap BigRed cells work with these, but that's close to max capability of the cell. The 26650 LiMnNi cells, or the dual 18650 boxes give a larger "Margin of Safety" for my High Powered 9 watt vape

The lower capable cells would be better for my 2010 vape at 5 to 8 watts.
What is the difference between two 3 ohm loads, and a 1.5 ohm load? Would twice pipes be the same as a dual coil? Or am i missing some thing?
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:07 PM   #168
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No, the electrical load would be the same.
The complimentary heating in the dual coil may help, but two separate 3 ohm cartos -
well, hell I don't know
Dual 3 ohm cartos in the twice pipes works fine.
A single 1.5 ohm dual coil works fine.
Dual 1.5 ohm cartos (4 coils) is just way too much, for me


Why are you bothering me, bored?


(kidding)
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A good e-juice, fresh carto, and 3.7 volts from a REALLY REALLY BIG battery works for me. YMMV

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...Quasi was right...Once

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Old 02-18-2012, 02:10 PM   #169
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Dual 1.5 ohm (4 coils) is just way too much, for me
Not quite where i was going, but hmm.. I do have a vv 26650 box that takes four cartos, got it up to one vape at 96 watts <was going for 100> before my fuse blew, <15 amp> but next time i will be prepaird..
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:03 PM   #170
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Not quite where i was going, but hmm.. I do have a vv 26650 box that takes four cartos, got it up to one vape at 96 watts <was going for 100> before my fuse blew, <15 amp> but next time i will be prepaird..
wearing bomb gear next time? (while stealing a handful of teks popcorn and watching rivitedly)
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Old 02-18-2012, 10:30 PM   #171
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Here's something that maybe Steam can research for us.

I've taken a few Dell and Lenovo battery packs apart to use the protection module to build 3S Li-ion packs (flashlights). I've noticed that the modules cut off the charging current when any cell reaches 4.35 volts. I know there are some newer Li-ion cells made for 4.3 to 4.35 volt charging algorithms but these were somewhat older packs. Discharge also cuts off at 2.5 volts for any cell. The packs were 3S3P with 9 18650 cells.

My guess is that with the high rate of charge used the 4.35 volt cutoff accounts for cell resistance and would detect a high resistance cell and cutoff charging as even more protection. A bad cell that had developed a higher than normal cell resistance would not show up with a very low charge current. This method stops charging when the weakest cell voltage climbs and stops discharge when the weakest cell (maybe a different one) drops. These modules don't seem to be really 'balancing', just monitoring and controlling charge and discharge.

After charging was terminated by the module, cell voltage quickly dropped to about 4.20 volts. You only see the 4.35 volts if you are watching while it charges. I'm sure there are smarter charge modules used in some laptop packs, including those with serial number lock outs, that have a more complicated alygorithm, but this seems to be different that the CC/CV method recommended everywhere. Strange that many name brand laptop manufacturers use the 'hit it hard' method.

Back in the day, it was common or a NiCad rapid charger to hit cells really hard and test for voltage droop to switch to trickle charge.


Steam,
have you seen this with the Dell packs you have around.
I only have two, and they are currently in use! I don't think I'm going to hack them apart just yet for terminal experiments (egads...did I just say that?!?!?!) BUT, when the batteries do start to drop off, they tend to drop off rapidly. Dell has (had?) battery monitors built into the packs and the computer, and if you fire up a Dell and press F2 to go into the BIOS, if you have the GOOD BIOS go to "Devices" and look up the battery. Eventually it will report "This battery is functioning normally but it's life expectancy is diminishing". I have often wondered if this meant that one cell in the pack was on the way out and causing the end of life of the battery pack.


My company had a couple of "exploding Dells" back in 2006. I saw one go up....quite a show. Ruined the computer.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:56 AM   #172
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:35 PM   #173
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:56 PM   #174
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LOL! Party time!!! No throwing popcorn in my hair now
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:01 PM   #175
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You two better clean up that mess on the floor....we mods only drag out the drunk members...
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